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July

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What the West was built on

Ghost towns, stamp mills, a false front on a main street, three-foot-gauge rails, a motel sign that no longer lights — the places where the past is still standing, and what happened there.

47 stories
The communal kitchens that fed seven villages
Iowa

The communal kitchens that fed seven villages

For seventy-seven years the seven Amana villages ate three meals a day from common kitchens, and the whole common life turned on them.

The long adobe portal of the Palace of the Governors, with people walking beneath it
New Mexico

Santa Fe in the Quiet Months

The galleries keep their own hours in January, the light goes long and gold, and the town belongs again to the people who live in it.

Weathered wooden buildings of a ghost town standing in summer grass, a wagon wheel in front
California

What the Wind Keeps at Bodie

In the high country east of the Sierra, a gold town from the 1870s still stands, held upright by wind, snow, and the policy of arrested decay.

A ruined masonry facade standing alone in the desert, a figure in its doorway, in black and white
Nevada

The Boom That Built Rhyolite, Nevada

Shorty Harris and Ed Cross found gold in the Bullfrog Hills in 1904, and Rhyolite rose behind them — a city that lasted about ten years.

A Sod Wall on the North Dakota Prairie
North Dakota

A Sod Wall on the North Dakota Prairie

Cut from the root-bound ground in strips and laid grass-side down, a sod wall is what a homestead on the North Dakota prairie was built of.

The Cabildo's arcade and iron-railed gallery running along Chartres Street in 1936, an American flag angled out over the pavement, two men walking under the arches and a car blurring past on the left
Louisiana

The Cabildo, Chartres Street, June 1936

A 1936 HABS photograph of the Cabildo shows its arcade, an American flag, and the cars of New Orleans.

An orange International tractor parked on gravel below red mesas
Utah

In Moab, what the uranium boom left behind

A Cold War mining rush changed Moab, Utah, and its mill tailings stayed beside the Colorado River for decades.

The Wainwright Building Is the First Skyscraper That Looks Like One
Missouri

The Wainwright Building Is the First Skyscraper That Looks Like One

The Wainwright Building in St. Louis gave the skyscraper its vertical face, and then nearly lost it to a parking lot.

The Coal Town That Came Back
New Mexico

The Coal Town That Came Back

When the railroads stopped burning coal, the New Mexico mining town of Madrid emptied out — until the people who loved it bought it back.

A man in a dark coat and wide-brimmed hat and two boys walk right past a board shed with a bent corrugated roof, leaning into blowing dust; fence-post stubs poke out of drifted ground
Oklahoma

Walking Into the Dust

A farmer and his sons walk into a Cimarron County dust storm in Arthur Rothstein's April 1936 photograph — the frame keeps the rest of their story out.

A car buried nose-down and painted grey, beside metal animal sculptures in dry grass
Nebraska

Cars Standing Still on the Nebraska Prairie

North of Alliance, a man rebuilt an ancient monument out of old sedans, and the small town that kept it learned to live with wonder.

Let Bodie Fall Down Slowly
California

Let Bodie Fall Down Slowly

Bodie, California, is kept in arrested decay rather than reopened, and that choice has a strong argument and a strong counter.

A curving highway on a forested bluff above a river, with a round stone viewpoint building
Oregon

The King of Roads

On the Oregon side of the Columbia Gorge, a hundred-year-old highway clings to the cliff, built for nothing but the view.

The men's bath hall of the Fordyce: a bronze fountain of De Soto in a tiled basin under a stained-glass skylight, marble benches, and a row of wooden-doored tub stalls along the back wall
Arkansas

The 1915 Fordyce Bath, Room by Room

A bather at the Fordyce in 1915 passes from tub to steam to table in a set order.

Sun Keeps Time on the Walls of Chaco Canyon
New Mexico

Sun Keeps Time on the Walls of Chaco Canyon

A day at Chaco Canyon, where the sun keeps time on the walls of the ancient great houses.

A wooded valley town below badlands bluffs, a log cabin among the trees
North Dakota

Medora, at the Edge of the Badlands

A town of barely a hundred in the North Dakota badlands, where the frontier is re-enacted every summer and the wind never stops.

A town spread across a high valley below mountains and tall clouds, in black and white
Colorado

The Highest Incorporated City

At 10,152 feet, Leadville, Colorado, is more than a historic mining town—it is a place that demands something from the people who stay.

Deadwood and the Gold That Built It
South Dakota

Deadwood and the Gold That Built It

In the Black Hills of South Dakota, a gulch full of dead timber became the wildest gold camp on the frontier.

Grain elevators above a small-town street, with a visitor centre in a former filling station
Kansas

The Middle of the Country Is a Field in Lebanon

In north-central Kansas, a small town sits at the exact midpoint of the forty-eight states.

The Relay at Simpson Springs
Utah

The Relay at Simpson Springs

At a Utah Pony Express station, the handoff runs on dust, leather, and the timing of a horse's breathing.

An elevated interstate viaduct on concrete piers running above a creek channel
Idaho

Wallace and the Interstate Above It

In Idaho's Silver Valley, Wallace refused to let I-90 take its downtown, so the highway crosses above the town instead.

The Iron Menagerie of the Enchanted Highway
North Dakota

The Iron Menagerie of the Enchanted Highway

On the grasslands of southwestern North Dakota, a 32-mile road is lined with giant scrap-metal sculptures — one teacher's plan to keep his hometown on the map.

A long low shed with a curved roof across dry grassland, a dirt track leading to it
Texas

What Chinati Did to Marfa

In the high desert of West Texas, a minimalist art foundation turned a fading ranch town into a place the whole country drives to see.